Solomon Islands paradise lost

It has started with a limp. Honiara, the capital on Guadalcanal presents itself as a pot hole littered mess. Shipping containers randomly placed, half constructed buildings, iron bob-wire fences, roads alternating between dust and mud. Not tourist friendly for sure. Maybe if I made my way to the interior it might improve... but Tomorrow I travel to the Western Province - the island of New Georgia and the town of Munda. These Islands - 8 degrees below the equator must hold more secrets.

The one curious experience here in Honiara: there is a national elect in a few days. In anticipation of the vote I witnessed several Political rallies. Flat bed Trucks and cars waving yellow flags, honking horns, playing loud music. I might not have even blogged about the event...except it appeared more of a celebration- a fete!!! One of the trucks had a supporter waving a bottle of liquor high - leading a cheer. Crazy cool to see the interest in the voting event- strange that it presents as a drunken festival. ...maybe my observation was an isolated occurrence....but somehow I don’t think so.

Flight to Munda - the atolls under the Dehavalon are stunning- packed together, all shades of green and blue. Magnificent.

Munda was paradise. Primitive, no luxuries, no cell communication, almost no WiFi coverage. But honest real people. Diving with Hammerheads and devil rays. Crazy 90+m visibility, hard coral that never ends, cool walls, calm easy warm diving. Diving from small 16ft boat. No ladder, handing bcd and gear up, pulling yourself aboard. Great stuff.

Visited a wwii museum in Bernie’s back yard - a local icon. History is everywhere. Wrecks, planes, docks, foundations. Ammo, guns.

National Geographic has a production team here preparing for a documentary - so cool, I get to share travel stories with them. I’ll have to catch that episode.

Casual, friendly. Boats and canoes rule the daily life, children play off the pier each evening at sunset- jumping swimming laughter. The older men gather on the dock to share Kava late in the evening. All without internet and an iPhone - life is surreal here, timeless.

On one of the dives, we boat past the famous Kennedy PT109 island- the world was changed by history here. I visit Skull island - holding the skulls of past tribal leaders. Tradition is the head is removed 10 days after death, cleaned and staged on the rocks of this tiny jungle island. 6 dives with the local shop : Dive Munda owned by Belinda, a wonderful host.

I then join a live aboard dive boat - the Taka. It turns out to be a beautiful, well maintained metal hull ship. Quite large,,with only 5 total guests I was treated with extraordinary attention. A crew of 14, and by chance one of the owners- Chaz a Canadian woman and expert diver. I had 100 questions about her business and learned so much in the process. In my next life ....

Diving was brilliant to say the least. Solomon’s are famous for cuts and cavernous swim thru’s, caves with sun beams piercing the depths. Epic scenery, with endless coral garden. A photographers dream. We surface within jungle caverns to towering trees, floating on shimmering waters with sunlight creating every shade of Green's and blues around us. This is heaven on earth. Coral of every color, mixed with WWII plane wreaks and sunken ships, and visits to idealic local villages.

The small villages stole my heart. Smiling children, lush palms and warm blue seas. I’ll plan some down time here next time around. Peava village was a joy to visit. I walked to their school holding hands with a young boy, bought a wood carving shark as a souvenir from Kevin and basked in this joyous vibe. The Taka's chief buys local produce for tonight's meal. Boys paddle canoes about, swim, play games with pea shooters - Smiles, music, lush tropical scents. Wow wow wow.

My time aboard Taka has come to a close all to quickly, 27 dives here in the Solomon’s. Mbulo Island is a must!! And the Russell’s are a close second. I visit only a tiny portion of these islands any can only imagine what lies beyond the next jungle.

The crew of Taka provide departure music; singing their own songs. Incredible authentic rhythms ... 14 crew and a guitar pulling them together- I’m breathless and stunned at the harmonies. Where am I ??

I leave from Guadalcanal- my starting point here in the Solomon’s...and the only disappointment I’ve found on this adventure... next visit my flight plan will bring me directly to Munda on New Georgia....and paradise.